Pasta Fazool (Pasta e Fagioli): Italian beans and pasta
This dish is the reason that I started this blog. When I think of Nonnie in the kitchen, it generally involves her making pasta fazool, the most luscious pasta and bean soup, with me and my spoon being shooed away from the pot. “Elizabeth! Go. Out. Side!” To be sure, I know this is correctly referred to as pasta e fagioli (pasta and beans) but we have never called it that and I see no reason to start now. Plus, I don’t think most of the family would know what I was talking about if it I called it Nonnie’s pasta e fagioli.
A bowl of this deliciousness could always set things straight … or at least make you forget your worries for a while. My best pasta fazool memory is after I had back surgery and was goofy on pain meds and not exactly feeling myself. Nonnie came over and found me lolling on the couch watching Ren & Stimpy and generally being out of sorts. She puttered back and forth between making pasta fazool in the kitchen and visiting with me but never once – and for this woman, it is amazing – mentioned that I should turn that idiotic trash on the television off lest my brain should rot and my morals be permanently damaged. Nope. She told stories. And puttered around … She made my house smell lovely and warm and left me fed and feeling loved and with a fabulous food memory. But no recipe!
The maestro of the musical fruit
Nonnie’s version was (as is mine) meat-free. This dish was a staple for Fridays during Lent when meat was off the menu; and with the salty rich grated Parmesan on top, you never noticed anything might be missing. The downside of having Nonnie make this dish on command (or, more accurately, polite request) was that none of us ever got her recipe from her. Dementia and her eventual trip to the heavens took that possibility away for good in 2011 and thus began my quest.
In my years-long search for a base recipe to work from, I finally found, and have borrowed liberally from (but do not blame), The New York Times version which was adapted from Emilio Vitolo, Emilio’s Ballato, Manhattan. Lineage in bean form!
I hope you take the time to try this recipe for what seems a simple pasta and bean soup. But prepare to be transported. Don’t forget to pour the wine. Red is best. Bubbles are great. A dry white will do. Then bean nirvana shall be yours. Namaste y’all.
Photos
As of March 2021, I am converting my old blog to this new and (fingers crossed) improved experience. I have, however, in the transition lost my mind ability to convert some photos. Until I get that remedied, please let me know if there is any instruction that needs more ‘splaining. Thanks for your patience, Lucy.
PASTA FAZOOL AKA PASTA E FAGIOLI
Ingredients
- 1 pound dried cannellini beans navy beans will work just as well
- 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
- 4-6 plump garlic cloves chopped
- 1 medium yellow onion chopped
- 28-32 oz. can whole San Marzano tomatoes crushed by hand (or use chopped – do not use tomato sauce or puree)
- leftover rind of Parmigiano-Reggiano OPTIONAL BUT DELICIOUS
- 1 TBS each Kosher salt and lots of freshly ground pepper add to taste (I use tons of pepper)
- 1/2 to 1 pound small dry pasta shape I use Barilla elbows
- 1/2 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley plus more for garnish
- 1 cup Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano Reggiano or a combination of the two, coarsely grated
Instructions
- Sort through the beans to be sure there are no pebbles or other random oddities and put into a soup pot. Cover the beans with water and soak overnight. In a pinch, you can do the boil-and-one-hour-soak that is described on every bag of beans, but I always find they split too early. That could, of course, be user error. Draining and rinsing before coking are imperative to get rid of the prospect of too many … bubbles. Moving on.
- Drain and rinse the beans well in a colander. Let them drain as you go to next step.
- Chop the garlic and onion … doesn't have to be too finely … and saute in the olive oil over medium heat. You are looking for translucency and a heavenly aroma. Do not brown the aromatics. This will take a minute or two at most.
- Place the beans into the pot with the onions and garlic and add water to two inches above the beans. This is not a point to get anxious about… just make sure the beans are covered with room to grow. And grow they will. Add the tomatoes and salt and give it all a stir. OPTIONAL but a great treat: if you have any leftover rinds or bits thereof of Parmigiano-Reggiano (never throw them away; they stay forever in the freezer in a sealed container/bag), plop a piece or two into the pot now. Your frugality in saving rinds will be rewarded.Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer until the beans are tender, about 1 hour 20 minutes. This can be longer or shorter depending on the beans. Starting at about the 45 minute mark, start tasting one for texture – should be creamy but not mushy; if they've started splitting, they are definitely done).
- When the beans are done, turn off the burner and let the pot sit covered off the heat. Bring another large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook the pasta for only half the time called for on the box.
- Drain the pasta and add it to the beans, reserving about 2 cups of the cooking water. Add a generous amount of ground pepper to the beans and pasta – I use about 1 TBS. Turn the heat under the bean/pasta pot to medium-low, and maintain a very slow simmer until the pasta is al dente, adding enough reserved pasta water to keep it slightly brothy or to your taste. Stir occasionally to keep pasta from sticking. Lid on if you want to retain brothiness (what I do) or off if you want it thicker right off the bat.
- Ladle into bowls, garnish with a a bit of the chopped parsley and a sprinkling of the shredded cheese.
- Yield: Enough to feed at least 8 hungry folks, maybe more if you add a salad and bread.
Notes
- The photo at the top of this post is the texture of the pasta fazool when served right away. The next day, you will have less broth and a softer texture to the pasta. I like both! This recipe easily halves or (god love you) doubles. Enjoy!
- This soup easily expands by adding additional pasta (why I give the 1/2 lb to 1 full lb option). You can also add more water if you want a thinner soup or more servings. Just adjust salt and pepper to taste.
- The soup will continue to thicken as it sits, especially if you are cooling it and serving the next day. I always make it a bit brothier than I think I want for that reason.
- If it is too thick when you reheat, add water 1/2 cup at a time and stir in until you get the desired consistency. Beyond 2 cups additional, you’ll get a diluted soup so start out the cooking with enough water.
- This is not rocket science and will taste delicous no matter what. My suggestion is you keep it more al dente to start so that it will never turn to gloop.
Hi Beth, Don’t see any reviews……I will be making this very soon and will be sure to leave one. This very closely resembles something my grandmother (Nonni) made when I was a child and I cannot wait to resurrect a long last recipe !
Hi Mike. I hope you do make it and it reminds you of your Nonni! My blog is generally family so I get email and in-person reviews 🙂 sometimes in great detail – which is great because I love the feedback. Please let me know if you make it.