The Basics: Tomato Sauce

One of the five mother sauces, if you care about such things, tomato sauce is a must-know for every cook. It’s delcious and versitile; can be used for a quick pantry meal or dolled up for a superb Italian dish. My recipe is the version my mother and the Nonnies would make. While I am just as inclined to toss an onion in butter to make Marcella Hazan’s fantabulous version, this basic tomato sauce below is the one that brings me comfort and joy. This recipe makes the perfect amount of sauce for one pound of dried pasta (cooked, of course … no, I take nothing for granted).

CLICK ON THE LINK ABOVE TO SKIP TO THE RECIPE.

If you hate having to read to the end, I feel you. Here’s the basic tomato sauce in a nutshell: Heat oil in a heavy-bottomed pot on medium-low, add the garlic and stir. Just as it starts to toast, mill in (or squish in) the tomatoes, then add the salt and the basil. Stir. Put the lid on, tipped to release steam. Stir every once in a while, fiddling with the heat just to keep a lazy bubble going, for an hour. Enjoy!

If you like the whatfors and whyhows, read on ….

INGREDIENTS

Tomatoes

I use whole canned tomatoes to get the right texture for my liking. If I can get whole canned San Marzano (not San Marzano-style … whatever that is), that’s my first choice. However, Muir Glen (from California) whole tomatoes are quite delicious, too. I can always get Cento (just pull that slippery basil leaf out… ugh) so keep a few cans in the pantry. If I find myself where they sell schwanky straight-from-Italy San Marzano, I’ll generally treat myself to a can or six. Yep, I’ve got issues.

To get the perfect texture, I either run the tomatoes through the large holes of my food mill or put my meticulously clean hands into the can and moosh them. While the latter is by far the more satisfying and fun method, the food mill gets the texture more consistent. Please don’t use a blender. I read somewhere, and it seems to be spot on, that when you whiz whole tomatoes, the seeds turn the sauce bitter when ground up.

Olive Oil

I use a quality cooking olive oil to make this sauce and leave my fancy oils for finishing. Not to say going cheapy Acme brand is the way to go. I’m currently having a bit of a love affair with Costco’s Extra Virgin Olive oil for cooking. Light and fruity without that vegetable oil smell the really poor quality oils have. If that makes no sense, understand my family think I’m part blood hound because of my soopa sniffa. Just use a good cooking olive oil; whatever that is to you. Growing up my mother and the Nonnies (here in the U.S.) used Filippo Berio. The last time I was at mom’s we used California Olive Ranch, a solid tasty choice if you can get the California-only version. And if you have an oil you’re particularly fond of, go for it! And please send me the name. I’m always on the hunt for tasty bargains.

That being said, when it comes to finishing oil, get yourself a Luanne. What’s a Luanne? Actually, it’s who’s a Luanne? Luanne is the Willy Wonka of Italian Olive Oil and other Italian goodies. She’s the owner of Olio2Go which is happily within driving distance for me so I can stop in for her (or her able staff’s) assistance in tasting oils and picking just the right one. You don’t have your own Luanne? Worry not, Olio2Go is online and you can reach out there or on Instagram to ask for an assist.

Garlic

Fresh, chopped garlic is a must in this sauce. Dehydrated, powdered, or jarred in oil just do not give the right punch this sauce needs. You. Have. Been. Warned.

Basil

Only use a dehydrated quality basil. What?! Yep. To my taste buds, fresh basil – which I love! – overpowers the tomato flavor if you add too early. A scant teaspoon of really nice basil – The Spice House is my go-to – flavors the sauce without trying to one-up the star. If you want to mince a bit of fresh basil over whatever dish you’re serving just before you dig in, that’d be just lovely.

Salt

Don’t skimp. Like any sauce, it is going to cover or be tossed with something most likely neutral so needs to be flavor-amped so that it’s not washed out. It’s like a vinaigrette; if you taste it before putting it onto a salad it should make your eyeballs water and your lips pucker in a good way (is that just me?) but balances out perfectly once on all the greens and bits. Same with this sauce and the salt.

Other mix-ins

Depending on what I’m making, I’ll add red pepper flakes with the garlic to the oil if I want a bite. If I’m going to simmer the sauce for a longer time (over one hour), I’ll toss a Parmigiano Reggiano rind in for a richer flavor. If I want more of a pizza sauce flavor, I’ll add oregano in place of, or sometimes along with, the basil (a total of 1 tsp). I’ve added fennel seed with the garlic for a sausage essence without the meat. I’ve added anchovies, capers and olives just because that’s an awesome combo. In other words, your imagination and pantry (and common sense) are your only limitations.

This sauce is not rocket science but I was asked how I make tomato sauce and I actually had to measure things out and set the timer so that my people can replicate it… and much like the reason I started this blog, to memorialize my food memories, I offer this basic tomato sauce and hope you’ll let me know if you make it. Better, let me know YOUR family’s favorite tomato sauce recipe. Enjoy!